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boiled kiln wash-primo primer

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boiled kiln wash-primo primer

Postby marie » Fri Mar 25, 2011 3:04 pm

I need help please. I like bullseye primer but as of late had to switch over to primo primer due to reuseable
molds for a glass casting company (I care not to name) recommendation. When I called the co. for help they
claimed my kiln was boiling the wash onto the mold thus making it a nightmare to remove from the mold.
I used their firing casting schedule 325f/hour to 1325f for 20min then 0ff. Very simple as I am using bullseyes fine frits and powders. The glass comes out perfect but it's the primer that's the issue.
Can tell me whats wrong? I mixed it 1 to 5 and put it in a spray bottle, shake with marbles and spray 5 thin coats, drying with a craft heat gun in between coats.I have a paragon 22 pearl kiln with elements in the top and sides. The mold co. only recommends primo primer due to the fine detail of their molds. Has anyone else had this problem?

What is the highest firing temp. F bulleseye primer will go. It doesn't say on the container. I am seriously
thinking of switching brands.

Thank you ever so much,

Marie
marie
 
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Re: boiled kiln wash-primo primer

Postby marykaynitchie » Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:39 pm

Hi Marie,

Bullseye Shelf Primer is tested to 1600º F. That is higher than most people would fire our glass. If you do use it at that high of a temperature, it may have a tendency to stick on opalescent styles. We don't have a problem with it sticking to our slumping molds--it seems pretty easy to buff off with a scrubby.

It might be worth a try. I have not heard of shelf primer "boiling".

Thanks for posting!

Mary Kay
Mary Kay Nitchie
Bullseye Glass Co.

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Re: boiled kiln wash-primo primer

Postby Stephen Richard » Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:33 pm

I just pulled pot melts out of the kiln done at 925C onto bullseye batt wash and had only minor sticking in a couple of places on one piece. So it may be tested to 870C, but it works for me at 925C too.
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Re: boiled kiln wash-primo primer

Postby marykaynitchie » Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:09 am

Stephen,

Good to know! Thanks for posting.

Mary Kay
Mary Kay Nitchie
Bullseye Glass Co.

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Re: boiled kiln wash-primo primer

Postby marie » Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:06 am

Mary Kay Nitchie wrote:Hi Marie,

Bullseye Shelf Primer is tested to 1600º F. That is higher than most people would fire our glass. If you do use it at that high of a temperature, it may have a tendency to stick on opalescent styles. We don't have a problem with it sticking to our slumping molds--it seems pretty easy to buff off with a scrubby.

It might be worth a try. I have not heard of shelf primer "boiling".

Thanks for posting!

Mary Kay


Hi Mary Kay
Thank you for your reply on the bullseye primer temp. I think I'll just go back to bullseye primer and lose a little detail in the molds. I've never heard of boiling primer either. The primo primer looks like thin plastic once its cured (dried-Not fired) on the mold. Once the primo was fired then it was smooth as glass .....I may have just answered my own question.....I use a craft heat gun to dry the wash. Maybe its too hot..I'll try a hair dryer instead. Ill' post results.

Thanks again,
Marie
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Re: boiled kiln wash-primo primer

Postby marie » Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:23 am

Stephen Richard wrote:I just pulled pot melts out of the kiln done at 925C onto bullseye batt wash and had only minor sticking in a couple of places on one piece. So it may be tested to 870C, but it works for me at 925C too.


Hello Stephen,
I also do pot melts. I fired my last one at 1700F (925C) but I used 1/8" fiber paper. There were a few pits but I fliped and fired with clear powder. It helped with (not so much) coldworking. I've never tried straight primer before. After my go around with primer I'm a little gun shy.

Thanks for you input,

Marie'
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Re: boiled kiln wash-primo primer

Postby edwardcantarella » Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:47 am

Hopefully you are pre-firing the Primo before putting in frit. This will give you a chance to take a soft brush(haik or what I use, cheap natural bristle "chip brushes") and dust them off a little after the low-temp firing to cure of set the Primo. Heat gun probably is curing it as you go along. I personally don't speed dry the Primo, as it is easier to see where you have missed spots or they are thin if you don't turn it from it's cold color of purple to the cured color of buff/white. And subsequent coats get a chance to settle better into the mold, so there is still some there if you brush them after heat curing. I think you are defeating some of it's better qualities by speed curing the earlier coats of it.
*I put a several drops of dark blue food coloring into ZYP brushable boron since I am such a fan of concept of some color showing where I have gone thicker/thinner on the release.
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