bullseyeglass.com • View topic - Saw Blades

Saw Blades

For discussion of processes related to using Bullseye glass, including kilnforming and kilncasting, torchwork, blowing and stained glass.

Saw Blades

Postby Twin Vision Glass » Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:08 pm

Hello Mary Kay,
I have a question for your team. What are their favorite 10 inch diamond blade for sawing through 4 inch thick x 24 inch long colourbars. Do they have a really nice one that you do not have to push with all your might just to cut through it. Mark at His Glassworks is going to test a new Huskavarnha blade and will let us all know how he likes it tooo.(I too am testing it and will keep you posted)
I am doing a really large project that takes hours and hours of cutting, and I ran through my favorite old diamond blade in 16 hours (it had a thin J design in it all the way around and was really great, but I do not have the name of that blade to re-order. :(
Thankyou. Leslie Rowe-Israelson
Leslie Rowe-Israelson
Give out FREE hugs!
Twin Vision Glass
 
Posts: 567
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:42 pm
Location: Invermere , B.C. Canada

Re: Saw Blades

Postby marykaynitchie » Fri Jan 15, 2010 12:46 pm

Hi Leslie,

Here is advice from Erik in R&E:

"This is a tricky question as we don’t use 10” blades in our studio and are rarely, if ever, cutting thin strips off of 4-inch slabs. In fact, I would be hesitant to make a 4-inch deep cut with a 10-inch blade in one pass as that exceeds the maximum depth of cut. The maximum is 3 inches.

The blades that we use in the studio here are a 14-inch Diarex wet cut premium blade and a 300mm Merkur slotted rim D 107. We get about 2 years of regular use, including classes, out of our Diarex blades and we can extend the life of these blades by regularly dressing them with a dressing stone.

What I have learned in working with and talking to a number of coldworkers is that the everyone has their own favorite blade but they all agree that setting up the saw to minimize vibration, dressing the blade on a regular basis, and using the appropriately sized tool for the size of the cut provides the best results."

He went on to mention various studios and schools using Diarex pro series continuous rim blades, MK glass blades and Merkur blades with great results. Leslie, I hope this helps.

Mary Kay

PS to everyone: Erik Whittemore teaches a coldworking class at Bullseye pretty regularly, where students receive this kind of information and instruction and time to use many of the tools in our coldworking shop. Taking a good coldworking class can be a valuable experience before going out to buy tools for your studio.
Mary Kay Nitchie
Bullseye Glass Co.

Subscribe to Bullseye kiln-glass videos at
bit.ly/BullVideos
marykaynitchie
 
Posts: 1205
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:39 am

Re: Saw Blades

Postby Twin Vision Glass » Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:31 pm

Thankyou so much Mary Kae. It is tricky trying to cut a 4 inch piece and YES !!! If only I had the right equipment. Turning the bar around and around and cutting and joining and well, I wish I had a 14 incher. Where do they find the blades you so kindly mentioned. Any idea. Thanks so much .
Leslie
Leslie Rowe-Israelson
Give out FREE hugs!
Twin Vision Glass
 
Posts: 567
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:42 pm
Location: Invermere , B.C. Canada

Re: Saw Blades

Postby marykaynitchie » Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:17 pm

Hi Leslie,

The Diarex blades come from GranQuartz:
http://www.granquartz.com/
The Merker blade came from Kurt Merker Kelheim:
http://www.merker-kmk.com/

Others may have blades sources and blades to recommend, too.

Mary Kay
Mary Kay Nitchie
Bullseye Glass Co.

Subscribe to Bullseye kiln-glass videos at
bit.ly/BullVideos
marykaynitchie
 
Posts: 1205
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:39 am

Re: Saw Blades

Postby Twin Vision Glass » Fri Jan 15, 2010 4:22 pm

Thanks so much. Always so helpful. Appreciated very much.
Leslie
Leslie Rowe-Israelson
Give out FREE hugs!
Twin Vision Glass
 
Posts: 567
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:42 pm
Location: Invermere , B.C. Canada

Re: Saw Blades

Postby Dierwolf » Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:05 pm

I have to agree with Erik. Having cut metal, glass, porcelain and plaster in something along the lines of a regular basis, I'd use at least a 14 inch blade if at all possible, if not bigger. That said, I'm a fan of getting it done with the tools at hand, so let us know the results you get. :)
Dierwolf
 

Re: Saw Blades

Postby Twin Vision Glass » Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:52 am

I have 2 blades on the wings of angel's (FedEx) and will for sure let you know . YES 14 inch blades and saw would be sooooooo fantastic, but for now I am stuck with improvising. :? I wish I could rent a studio for a time to saw all these colourbars I have piling up. BUT I guess they are lovely tooo in sections; since we are so fortunate with casting and fusing to just melt them back together. I am trying experiments with the creative side of joining them together with powders and things tooo.! Making them a more abstract approach . (and I love abstract much more than trying to make it look like something in perticular.)
Leslie
Leslie Rowe-Israelson
Give out FREE hugs!
Twin Vision Glass
 
Posts: 567
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:42 pm
Location: Invermere , B.C. Canada

Re: Saw Blades

Postby Twin Vision Glass » Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:42 pm

6073 DeWALT DW4764 10in XP2 Porcelain Diamond Blade 1 DEWALT DW4764 10" XP PORCELAIN BLADE (16E)
The blade is segmented. It's what's called a butted segment instead of continuous rim. Made for more stability on stone actually.
Well I have been hard at working testing blades for thick patternbar slicing and although many of the diamond blades I have tested have not been the ones suggested by your great team, I did find my favourite one from Contractors Direct in the U.S.A.(and I have now tested 5 different blades) ( :? big cost but the time lost trying to saw with the wrong blade is hours and hours) It has held up so very well, and just motors through the glass . It has the little J cut outs and help to not jam the saw half way through the colourbar.
I would so love to try the blades you have mentioned and perhaps should take a coldworking seminar to try out the blades you love. :geek: will bring my glasses tooooo and fun hat of course. (and turtle neck so no glass get's in the old bra. :? :roll: :cry:
Thankyou for all your help. Try one of these if you like. I LOVE it.
Leslie
Leslie Rowe-Israelson
Give out FREE hugs!
Twin Vision Glass
 
Posts: 567
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:42 pm
Location: Invermere , B.C. Canada

Re: Saw Blades

Postby Twin Vision Glass » Thu Jan 28, 2010 8:46 am

Hi Mary Kay,
I have been trying to access the site you posted from GranQuartz.com and Merkur and cannot seem to get into the sites. Do you have a link to the saw blade for thick cutting (10inch blade or 14 inch blade ) colorbars. (I read you only use 14 inch which is sooooo much better) Do they have the Butted Segment or are they the continous rim. Thankyou so much. (the Butted Segment blades that seem to work well have a very" tiny " J (very thin interuption in the blade all the way around)
I also tried to see a picture of the the Merkur 300 mm D 107, but alas , hard site to enter. :? I would love to see this blade and your favorite machine . I have been to your amazing cold shop but wished I could have taken pics. :roll:
Leslie
Leslie Rowe-Israelson
Give out FREE hugs!
Twin Vision Glass
 
Posts: 567
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:42 pm
Location: Invermere , B.C. Canada

Re: Saw Blades

Postby marykaynitchie » Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:48 am

Hi Leslie,

I am not having trouble accessing their sites, but if you still can't get in, here are email addresses to contact the companies with your questions:

Kurt Merker GmbH
Email: info@merker-kmk.com

Granquartz:
customerservice@granquartz.com

Mary Kay
Mary Kay Nitchie
Bullseye Glass Co.

Subscribe to Bullseye kiln-glass videos at
bit.ly/BullVideos
marykaynitchie
 
Posts: 1205
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:39 am

Next

Return to Technique

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest