Interesting Colourbar Set-up

[Twin Vision Glass]

I guess this is a good example of set-up

[Twin Vision Glass]

I was trying to keep the opaline glass from not going dense as it is such a beautiful glass so I only fire to 1480 which was suggested and it is lovely. (opaline in the window section)

[Twin Vision Glass]

The really fun part is not only trying to get the glass to move and flow but then to set it up to then flow as a pattern. This is truly when your vision from the beginning takes shape.
Leslie

[KarynReott]

Leslie - thank you so much for posting so much information and the wonderful pictures. It is inspiring and I can't wait to try some of your techniques.

If anyone wants to get together to do an order with Zircar for the dams, please contact me offline. If we can get a few people together, we can try to put an order together, and keep everyone's cost down.


Karyn
kreott@earthlink.net

[Roberta Ayles]

I just love your colourbars- thanks for sharing your technique. I'd love to have a go one day - I'll have to track down someone with a saw..

[Twin Vision Glass]

Dear Karyn and Roberta,
You are soooo very welcome. I really enjoy sharing as it is so great to see what others come up with. Experimenting has always been a part of creating in glass for me for some time now, and new ideas and techniques are wonderful to share. Each one of us will take techniques and then change and enhance to come up with their own twist on it . So I hope you find a friend with a saw. To me it is all about the blade toooo when sawing colour bars as it can be sooo frustrating with the wrong blade and wrong size of saw for the job. Mary Kay gave some great advice in a thread here about Saw Blades , so check it out.
Let us know how it all turns out for you.
Leslie

[Twin Vision Glass]

If you do not have access to Zircar Containment molds, this is an inexpensive set-up that allows for some great movement tooo. You can control the colour and movement well with this technique. Stainless Steel mandrels are easy to find. Just make sure you push them in far enough that they do not sag into the glass. If you set them at different angles and positions , this will help the movement. You can keep the temperature lower than a pot-melt, helping the glass to not have to be taken sooooo hot.
Leslie

[Twin Vision Glass]

When you slice in different ways tooo you can create a painterly affect.

You know, the more I thought about it , the more I thought about all of us with scraps from our colourbars toooo and what you can do with them. No scrap is a scrap to me. It then becomes jewellery.

[Muzzio]

Hi Leslie,

Just wanted to drop by this thread and say how great I think all this is. Really beautiful stuff.

I wonder if you might be willing to disclose your complete firing schedule on the 4" bars?

[Twin Vision Glass]

Hi again,
It was very hard to teach an old horse new tricks BUT !!! after BeCon I have tried to change my schedules to conform to the new anneal schedule suggested by Bullseye Glass. I have annealed at 960 for some time now, but anneal now at the new 900 F.
So I know you will think I am very conservative , but here is my schedule:

-100 deg. per hour to 1012 F. - No hold
-200 deg. per hour to 1220 F. - hold for 2 hours
-300 deg. per hour to 1480 F. - hold for 15 minutes (if you want the glass to move up through the layers dragging colour with it you can hold for 2 hours at 1480 F. but so far I am happy with trying to get the glass to move at lower temps with the set - up configuration.
-down to 900 F. asap (as fast as kiln can go without opening!)
-16 hour anneal soak at 900 F.
-1.7 deg. per hr. to 800 F. - no hold
-3.1 deg. per hr. to 700 F. - no hold
- 15 deg. per hr.to 100 F. off