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1) Outdoor tiles 2)Compatibility

For discussion of processes related to using Bullseye glass, including kilnforming and kilncasting, torchwork, blowing and stained glass.

1) Outdoor tiles 2)Compatibility

Postby Melissa F » Fri Jan 29, 2010 1:15 pm

Two questions here! First -I have been commissioned to make several 6"x6" tiles that will be mounted in a continuous outdoor 'wall' (I think held in place individually perhaps with wood or metal frame - open on both sides.)
My question is that I write from England, and I wonder if you could advise about a good thickness that would withstand the wide variations of weather - hot summers and in the winter sometimes below freezing, with snow. If they are to be thicker then 2 layers of glass, then do you suggest I make them in a block - as per your 'Working Deep' Tipsheet 3?

Second question, I have only ever used Bullseye, but today I was given some Uroboros clear glass and was told it was compatible with Bullseye. Is this true?!

Thanks for setting up the forum!
Melissa F
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:22 am
Location: London

Re: 1) Outdoor tiles 2)Compatibility

Postby Lani McGregor » Fri Jan 29, 2010 1:35 pm

Hi Melissa,

Some of the major issues to consider when installing glass outdoors are:

1.You’ll want to be sure that there are no spaces where water/moisture can lodge then freeze and expand. This is a sure way to crack glass. Flat tiles should be no problem. But you will need to be cautious of any framing where water can gather and freeze.

2. Will the full body of glass be warmed and cooled homogeneously in the elements? Glass can take lots of direct sunlight (probably not your major problem in Britain ;-), but it should NOT receive sunlight/heat in one area while shaded in another. Observe where you intend to install the glass. Are there times when part of the work will be in shade while part is in full sun?

This is considerably less of a concern if the tiles are small as yours are. It can be disastrous on large panels.

3. Is the fused glass tile or panel composed of very dark (black) and very light (white or clear) areas? These will absorb and reflect heat in very different ways, setting up tension within the piece.

…..l’m sure others will contribute to this thread, so I’ll stop with those. This is a fascinating subject and one that could be discussed for pages!

Lani McGregor
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2008 2:13 pm
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA

Re: 1) Outdoor tiles 2)Compatibility

Postby johnreeves » Fri Jan 29, 2010 2:53 pm

Yeah, Uboros has been OK by me mixed with Bullseye, cast and raked at 1650-- although I like Bullseye clear casting cullet as it sems to live up to its "crystal clear" label consistently. The only Uboros cullet I've used has been 1/8" pieces in a 40 lb pail, and this is a pain in the patootie to cast without severe bubulosis. Anyway, the mixed glasses fuse well and show no appreciable strain after several years in the garden.

Happy fusing!

Re: 1) Outdoor tiles 2)Compatibility

Postby Lynn g » Fri Jan 29, 2010 2:57 pm

Uroboros does make a COE 90 clear. I received some from my supplier when they were apparently out of Tekta. it seemed to work just fine with my Bullseye; the only drawback is that it is smooth and looks just like the System 96 clear. If you also use System 96 you must be very careful to label every single piece and scrap. I hope to be able to stick with Tekta in the future to avoid this problem; I was lucky to only have one small piece that didn't get labeled; still, it's a piece I can't use for fusing now. :(
Lynn g
Central Calif.
Lynn g
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Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:00 pm

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