bullseyeglass.com • View topic - balancing glass on stainless steel single curved molds

balancing glass on stainless steel single curved molds

For discussion of processes related to using Bullseye glass, including kilnforming and kilncasting, torchwork, blowing and stained glass.

balancing glass on stainless steel single curved molds

Postby hazeincornwall » Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:07 am

Have had some stainless steel curves made in 3mm
have a conservative slump schedule that's worked well with ceramic molds.
Wondered if anyone has any tips/experience re balancing glass before slumping
and or if slumping temperature will need adjusting?
Please/Thankyou
hazeincornwall
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:52 am

Re: balancing glass on stainless steel single curved molds

Postby bertglass » Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:19 am

If you have roof elements and the glass balances such that one end is sitting higher, slow down your heatup enough so that you don't thermal shock.

The alternative involves kevlar gloves and manipulating the glass when it is above 1000ºF.

The glass will slump when it gets soft enough.
Bert Weiss
bertglass
 
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:58 am

Re: balancing glass on stainless steel single curved molds

Postby Stephen Richard » Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:13 am

I have draped over half round ceramic and steel forms. They require care as the form drains the heat from the centre of the glass while the outer edges gain heat. As I use only 1mm steel forms, the schedule works for both ceramic and steel. With your thicker steel, I would be more cautious up to about 500C than for the ceramic.

anyway what I do is 2 hours to 100C, soak for 10mins, 2hours to 300C, soak for 10 mins, 2 hours to 650C (or whatever target temperature you choose) soak for as long as necessary then anneal. You may want to slow down (ie., extend the time it takes to go up to 200C) as you have thicker metal than I do.

Steve
Stephen Richard
 
Posts: 224
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 9:02 am

Re: balancing glass on stainless steel single curved molds

Postby hazeincornwall » Wed Mar 17, 2010 1:23 am

Thank you both,
Bert and steve
Have taken head of your advice,and
am thinking to use fibre paper 3mm, on (s.s.molds 3mm thick) to help equalise heat distribution.
all tack fused;4 layers and two in some places;layers are continuous along curves.
Steve,shall use schedule similar to yours.

Any further advice ?!
Thanks
hazeincornwall
hazeincornwall
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:52 am


Return to Technique

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron