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Getting the most out of Striker Colors

For discussion of processes related to using Bullseye glass, including kilnforming and kilncasting, torchwork, blowing and stained glass.

Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby Mike Jordan » Tue May 11, 2010 9:44 pm

I bought a couple 10x10 sheets of striker glass a few months ago because I wanted to give them a try and well, because I'm a sucker for pretty colors and the Ruby Red and Cranberry Pink samples were really pretty when I saw them at the Bullseye Resource center. :D

So now I want to try making a couple of things with them and I know that tempurture is important with strikers to bring out the best in the color. Which is my question... what is the recommended ramp speed and processing tempurture to bring out the color? I want to do a couple of very shallow bowl shapes, about 1.5" drop but I haven't decided if I'm going to drap over a fiberboard mold or slump into a cut out section of fiberboard.

Any suggestions on how to handle this glass?

Thanks

Mike
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby marykaynitchie » Wed May 12, 2010 12:43 pm

Hi Mike,

That is an excellent question. Gold-bearing striking glasses can appear pale or colorless in the cold sheet and "strike" or change significantly to target color when fired. To promote proper color development in this group of strikers, we suggest a 45 minute hold around 1225 degrees Fahrenheit on the way up to process temperature. Without this hold in the Pre-rapid Heat Soak portion of the firing cycle, the glass may not fully strike.

Mary Kay
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby Mike Jordan » Wed May 12, 2010 2:21 pm

Thanks, Mary. I'm glad I asked as I wouldn't have done the hold at 1225. I really love those colors. Every time I go intot he Resource Center I look at them and try to think what I project I could do that would justify getting them. I finally gave up trying to come up with something at the last sale and figured I'd buy and then come up with something. :D

Now I've got a couple of projects I want to do that I think they will work real well in. It's some garden art for my folks garden in the form of a bird/Hummingbird baths. I just wish I had thought of it in time to take them when I visited them on Mother's day. So I'll take them up on Father's day instead. :D

Thanks again, Mary.

Mike
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby baglasslady » Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:55 pm

Mary:
Great response on the gold colored glass -- I'm making a note that the striking temp is so low. What about the other striking colors? Do you have a good reference page anywhere that lists all of the ideal striking temps and hold times for each? Does it make a difference if it is a thin (1.5mm) or thick (3mm) sheet ref: temps & times?

Thanks for the details that make such a difference in our results in our studios!
Barbara
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby Stephen Richard » Sat Jan 14, 2012 5:36 pm

Mary Kay Nitchie wrote:Hi Mike,

That is an excellent question. Gold-bearing striking glasses can appear pale or colorless in the cold sheet and "strike" or change significantly to target color when fired. To promote proper color development in this group of strikers, we suggest a 45 minute hold around 1225 degrees Fahrenheit
That's 662 C for the rest of us. Round about the slumping temperature

on the way up to process temperature. Without this hold in the Pre-rapid Heat Soak portion of the firing cycle, the glass may not fully strike.

Mary Kay
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby marykaynitchie » Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:30 pm

Hi,

We have a reference under Products>About Our Glass with working notes for glasses that might need special firing consideration. Click on the name of any color, and then choose the "Sheet glass" tab. This is a fairly new feature of the website, and the other sections will be populated as we have technical notes to share about other forms of glass. Here are the working notes for Cranberry Pink 1311: http://www.bullseyeglass.com/cranberry- ... t.html?p=3

Interesting, our working notes here say that the recommended temperature is 1250 degrees F. (676 degrees C). I should think that either temperature should work fine.

Mary Kay
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby Stephen Richard » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:09 am

Interesting, our working notes here say that the recommended temperature is 1250 degrees F. (694 degrees C). I should think that either temperature should work fine.

694C is 1282F
1250F is 676C
notice the 23F degrees difference. You need to subtract the 32F (relates to the freezing point of water) from the F before converting to C
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby marykaynitchie » Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:14 am

Stephen, I am sure you are right. I used an online conversion tool, so once I verify my mistake, I will go back and edit my post.

Mary Kay
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby marykaynitchie » Sun Jan 15, 2012 11:42 am

OK, I figured out my mistake--I used a rate conversion table instead of a temperature conversion table. Thanks, Stephen!

Mary Kay
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Re: Getting the most out of Striker Colors

Postby Stephen Richard » Sun Jan 15, 2012 3:40 pm

marykaynitchie@bullseyeglass.com wrote:OK, I figured out my mistake--I used a rate conversion table instead of a temperature conversion table. Thanks, Stephen!

Mary Kay


You know me. I just can't resist poking fun at the "F" users. :-)
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