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Tack Fuse Casting Schedule

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Tack Fuse Casting Schedule

Postby helenc » Wed Jan 25, 2017 10:46 am

I am wanting to cast frit in a steel tube that is 3.5" in diameter and either 12" or 24" tall. I will line it with 1/4" fiber board and a layer of thin fire. I have done small scale tests to find out what my target temperature should be to get the finish that I want.

Currently, at .875" w x 2" h I use this schedule:

300/hr 1000 :30
300/hr 1375 :20
AFAP 900 1:30
100/hr 700 :00

Now, I know with a thicker mass, I will need to slow down that cooling cycle quite a bit. Should I use the annealing schedule for thick slabs? And, should I slow my ramp up?

Here is a photo of my latest test:
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Re: Tack Fuse Casting Schedule

Postby marykaynitchie » Wed Jan 25, 2017 11:58 am

Wow, there are a lot of variables here that I haven't come across before in past projects.

I don't know if we have cast into a steel pipe. I wonder how the temperature conductivity and expansion of metal will affect the casting.

Will the tube be upright in the kiln, or lying down? Are you trying to make a column?

I think you should use the "Annealing for Thick Slabs" chart as a starting point for annealing.

Here are links to discussions about projects using pipes to make columns out of Bullseye glass--Michelle Schouten initiated both threads:

Hollow form:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/forums/vie ... =14&t=3665

Mary Kay
Mary Kay Nitchie
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Re: Tack Fuse Casting Schedule

Postby helenc » Wed Jan 25, 2017 5:16 pm

Thanks Mary Kay!

I am planning on an upright casting. I will check out the info you linked to.


Read the link - I am making a solid column and want to have a rough finish, though I might want to make some smoother finished columns in the future. I have thought about using plaster-silica molds for the process, but thought that the steel tubing would be a good reusable container. I'm open to any suggestions on the mold.

Thanks again!
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Re: Tack Fuse Casting Schedule

Postby jestersbaubles » Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:06 pm

Your biggest issue will be annealing. That said, I have done a few firings in a stainless steel tube. My pieces never come out completely round, and they have typically had interior holes. It's likely the layup of the glass, so maybe you have worked this out. For my purposes, it didn't matter since I was using them for pattern bars (which is how I knew they had holes :)).

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