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Gum Image Transfer

For discussion and commentary regarding the Lesson and Project videos of the Bullseye Kiln-Glass Education Online program.

Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby Haleybach » Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:03 am

Thanks for the answers.

I will eventually pull out some Pronto Plates (there are other brands but Pronto is the 'Kleenex' of poly plates) and see what happens. I like poly plates for the same reason I like the gum transfer/xerox lithography, no toxic chemicals.

At one point and time I knew the why of citric acid, but I don\'t remember. I only remember it was a safe anti scumming additive. Since glass gives you a chance to clean up your print it may be just as well to skip it and keep it simple. Simple is another reason why this method is attractive to me.

I'll post my results when I try the Pronto Plates, hopefully soon, it is high on my infinite list of things to try with glass.
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby carrie_iverson » Fri Sep 20, 2013 6:11 am

Hi Haley- Great, please let us know how printing with the poly plates goes. One of the things I enjoy about this process is its versatility- it can be modified so many ways! cheers, Carrie
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby debbi.elmer » Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:17 pm

I love this lesson and the process and have been able to follow the instruction relatively well. My issue is that my finished glass images are very light. I've followed the directions very closely and have produced about 8 images - all too light to use for anything. Not sure why this occurs....am I not getting enough glass powder on them? I'm putting about 5 to 6 layers on them and am not sure how to get more glass to stick! The etching ink brand I'm using is Gamblin and is oil based. Is there a different ink that would be better?

Any guidance, thoughts or advice would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Debbi Elmer
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby carrie_iverson » Mon Feb 17, 2014 11:14 am

Hi Debbi-

Glad you are enjoying the technique! My first suggestion would be to slightly increase the amount of ink in your ink/setswell ratio. Having a "stickier" print will allow more powder to adhere to your print. You might also slightly increase the amount of ink you are rolling out on your roller.

I'm attaching a photo of some colors that I've found work well. Since powder is so much finer than sheet glass it will always be paler than the same color in sheet glass form. For non-reactive colors how the color appears pre-firing (in the jar) is actually a pretty great gauge of how the final print will appear. Incorporating reactions into your piece is a great way to increase saturation and contrast.

Hope that helps! You are welcome to message me with additional questions.

cheers,
Carrie
Attachments
993304_10151555209251911_1358786285_n.jpg
Color in powder form samples: Top row colors capped with tekta, bottom row copper bearing colors capped with reactive ice
993304_10151555209251911_1358786285_n.jpg (53.45 KiB) Viewed 60851 times
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby debbi.elmer » Tue Feb 18, 2014 5:50 am

Thanks so much Carrie! I appreciate your thoughts and will try again today. The images you posted are very helpful. Will let you know how it goes!

Debbi
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby debbi.elmer » Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:04 am

Carrie,

Thanks again for your suggestion. I did slightly decrease the amount of Sets Well I used in proportion to the ink and the images are somewhat darker. I am printing on clear glass. I will try it next on some of the reactives and I suspect I'll get the darker images I was seeking. I was hoping to get them on clear. I appreciate your help and comments. Any chance you'll be teaching this gum arabic transfer anywhere this year? I'd love to take your class.

Again, many thanks for generously sharing your techniques and thoughts.

Debbi
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby carrie_iverson » Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:22 am

Hi Debbi-

Glad to hear those modifications helped!

I'm not sure where you are located, but I will be teaching my image transfer class several times in the Bay Area in April and May. If you're interested, I post my classes as they become officially announced on my website at http://www.carrieiverson.com/purchase.html

Thanks again for your interest!

cheers,
Carrie
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby debbi.elmer » Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:11 am

Hi Carrie,

That's terrific. I'm in Texas but can certainly travel. I'll check your website.

Best to you and hope to meet you in person soon!

Debbi
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby babsteve » Sat Jun 20, 2015 6:37 pm

Hi Carrie

I've had a few goes at trying your gum image transfer technique and lost count how many times I've watched the video. Epic failures so far. I've used Charbonnel Black No. 55981 as well as Charbonnel Soft Black. I've also tried Setswell as well as Easy Wipe mixed with the inks, separate attempts. Applied with a Speedball 4 in roller too.

I've measured out everything with scales. Then tried different scales in case they weren't working. Yep, I've got lithography sponges in place too. 283 grams gum arabic to 113 grams water.

Applied 5+ rolls of ink to the plate too.

The best image I could get up was slightly more defined than a water mark. I'm running out of ideas as to what to do/combinations thereof to get a decent image. Any suggestions? Apart from try another technique?? lol. :-) Any insights would be greatly appreciated. I did learn to wear gloves when attempting though. No way I could keep as clean as they do in the video. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Babs :-)
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Re: Gum Image Transfer

Postby alfeze » Thu Mar 23, 2017 2:47 pm

I was wondering about the firing schedule that was given to create the smooth glass to print on. I just fired some pieces of white 3mm on a kiln shelf on thinfire and they seem to have generated a smooth surface but where all round the edge it is raised. Although I guess I could put the inked) image on still, what should I avoid /do to get the right surface to cap later?
And is there a way to avoid it next time or is one supposed to remove the raised edge?
I thought my kiln was firing 9deg C hotter than before it got fixed but now I'm thinking maybe I'm wrong when using your schedules. This particular firing was done with the given schedule. I am wondering if I need to get a separate thermometer to do a check... if I should anyone know an international one that that I can get in UK? Would be great.
Many thanks Anne
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