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Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

For discussion and commentary regarding the Lesson and Project videos of the Bullseye Kiln-Glass Education Online program.

Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby LMTomon » Thu May 30, 2013 3:35 pm

The video shows cutting a pattern on "buttercut" and adhering it to a tube to act as a roller
Can you tell me more about Buttercut - where would I get it and how thick is it?
Thanks

Loraine
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby Chris_Petrauskas » Fri May 31, 2013 10:19 am

Loraine,

"Buttercut" is the common name for 3M/Scotch #507 Sandblast Stencil material. It comes in a 45mil/1.4mm thick sheet.
http://www.3m.com/intl/kr/img/pdf/507.pdf

The fact that it is created as a sandblast stencil material means that it's thick to be durable enough for its intended use which gives us the feature of being thick enough to create an imprint when used in our roller set-up. The "buttercut" appellation refers to the fact that it is design to be exceptionally easy to hand cut.

Tell Bob over at HIS that Bullseye sent ya:
http://www.hisglassworks.com/cart/3M_Buttercut_Sandblast_Stencil_p694.html

Thanks,
Chris
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby sarahgivens » Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:48 am

A member had some great questions about using Olivine sand, and I thought maybe others wondered the same thing. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Sarah

re use of olivine sand:

- does olivine (green) sand need to be pre-fired before mixing with plaster for a box casting project?

- pre-fire the sand or the sand/plaster mix on a primed shelf or an unprimed shelf?

- the sand/plaster mix can be re-used; when will I know that I should prepare a new mix? is there a shelf life?
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby marykaynitchie » Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:17 am

Chapter 2 of the lesson directs the user to prefire the olivine sand/plaster mixture. In the video, the raw, unfired, green sand is used to make the mixture. It is prefired after mixing.

...Once the mixture of sand and plaster is ready, pre-fire it before placing the glass on it. Pre-firing the mixture will burn out any organic contaminants present and reduce the risk of devitrification when firing the glass. Simply scoop the mixture onto a kilnshelf…

And fire at 400 degrees per hour to 1550 degrees Fahrenheit, holding for one hour. Then let the kiln cool at its natural rate.

During firing, the sand turns red because its iron component oxidizes with heat...


The shelf in the video appears to be unprimed on this initial firing.

I'm not sure if there is a limit to reusing the sand/plaster mixture.

By the way, olivine sand may be hard to find. We have since learned that just about any clean sand will work as well as olivine. I would prepare other sands the same way as the olivine sand.

Mary Kay
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby Twin Vision Glass » Fri Sep 19, 2014 1:18 pm

I feel this is one of the best videos to date. I used to kiln cast glass in sand beds for many years and used other side molds made out of Mold Mix 6 to hold large amounts of Bullseye glass. Although my separator was Talc Powder , I feel that Bullseye Kiln wash is the best solution especially if you are creating side molds out of Mold Mix 6 to minimize the bubbling that talc on Mold Mix 6 would create. I also have a suggestion that Iridescent Glass also works as a great resist also ( with the separator as well) and can create some wonderful affects . So many ways to work , and this is an excellent introduction to Kiln forming in sand. I was fortunate to be able to Hot Cast Glass and went on many wonderful search and find missions with Paul Marioni for push in tools , and all those tools and TOYS as Paul would call them are invaluable. One more suggestion also is that if you have many tiles to create that are all the same size, Zircar Refractory Containment Molds are excellent to make sure each piece is exactly the same size as others. http://www.twinvision.fusedglassartists ... sting.html
Thank you again for this wonderful Kilnforming on a sand bed. Have fun everyone
Les
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby univerredenora » Tue Mar 29, 2016 2:11 am

Hi,

I have a mix of 50/50 silica/plaster leftover from a previous project. If I mix it to the sand, I will end up with 25/25/50. Are the proportions of 50/50 sand/plaster critical if I am to kilnform on a sand bed?

Cheers!

Lucie
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby marykaynitchie » Tue Apr 05, 2016 1:30 pm

While the measurements do not need to be exact, the mix you suggest is substantially different from the recommended ratios (or anything we have tried). It possibly could work, but we would recommend that testing before proceeding with the actual project.

Mary Kay
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby enoraglassart » Fri Oct 21, 2016 12:59 pm

Hi,

Need your two cents (worth a million!) to troubleshoot an issue.

I have adapted a bit this great technique to combine the full fuse step with the kiln forming on sand instead of doing it in two steps. I end up sometimes with a lot of surface holes. Here is the schedule that I am currently using for 4 layers of glass over 1.5 inch of sand bed:

150-1000-30
50-1250-60
*-1535-90
*-900-180
45-800-1
90-700-1

Am I heating up the glass too much? I tried using 45 min at the FF step as per video but I still had many holes on the surface. BTW, I usually get a FF at 1485F in my kiln.

Cheers!

Lucie
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby marykaynitchie » Tue Oct 25, 2016 8:56 am

Hi Lucie,

90 minutes is a very long time to leave the glass at process temperature. I am guessing that it is enough time for any internal bubbles to float to the top of your piece and pop, leaving little holes. Less time at process temperature, or using a lower process temperature might solve this issue.

However, we still recommend doing that kind of project in two firings--one to make the tile, and one to cast into the sand.

Mary Kay
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Re: Kilnforming on a Sand Bed

Postby Ciaratwomey » Wed Mar 08, 2017 6:43 am

Can I use a metal box, created from dams, instead of vermiculite? Also, do I need to modify prog for 6mm blank? Thanks
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