Katie wrote:Have always used machinery to cold work and would like to try this. Where is a good source for purchasing the loose grit?
firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:on the video the loose grit that was used was 80, 220 and 400, Why would they not use 120 after the 80 instead of jumping to the 220 grit??
email@example.com wrote:I understand the loose grit method and have used it a bit with good success. However, I am a little puzzled by the sequence in the video where sections of the flat lip of a dropped bowl are scored, broken off and the bowl taken to the loose grit station. At first you can see that the ragged edges are there as it is beeing worked in the grit. Then those edges are suddenly gone in a following section, as if grinding vertically in the loose grit removed all the glass remaining from the scored/cut lip.
That's a long way down, does the video suggest grinding in loose grit to remove the remaining horizontal lip?
Could this same result be achieved more quickly by scoring/cutting as shown and then grinding down the remaining outside sections on regular rotary grinder? I assume that if this is possible you'd need to be careful not to stress the sides of the bowl against the grinder.
Why did I skip 120 grit? The short answer is, I didn't have any! The long answer is that there isn't a magic bullet for coldworking strategies, much to the dismay of all my coldworking students. By skipping a grit I am indeed spending more time at the higher grit that I otherwise would need to. But the loose grit is pretty efficient to begin with and I probably saved time by not having to clean my work station and piece and set up for three grits instead of the two I used. So in the end it was efficiency coupled with the fact that we don't currently have 120g in house. On a side note, it is easier to see evidence of prior grit marks when skipping a grit. The white pock-mark dots jump out at you a little bit easier.
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