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Working with Frit Balls

For discussion and commentary regarding the Lesson and Project videos of the Bullseye Kiln-Glass Education Online program.

Working with Frit Balls

Postby Chris_Petrauskas » Wed Mar 12, 2014 10:11 am

Watch the Lesson at:
https://videos.bullseyeglass.com/videos/working-with-frit-balls/

Please discuss and comment in this thread.

Thanks!
Chris Petrauskas
Bullseye Glass Co.
Portland, Oregon, USA
http://www.bullseyeglass.com
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby Cinahon.oz » Fri Mar 14, 2014 1:08 pm

Loved this video! I've been making frit balls for awhile and experienced some of the problems you discuss. Now I know what went wrong.

Are there any firing charts available for the individual colors as shown in the video? I was unaware the different colors would change if taken over 1500 or held too long.

Thanks for a great video
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby fusin4fun » Mon Mar 17, 2014 4:11 pm

Can opal colors be fired on thin fire to keep them from sticking to the shelf? or will they also stick to the thin fire?
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby evedevito » Tue Mar 18, 2014 4:57 am

This is great! I make my small cabochons by snipping rods but this gives me more options in terms of sizes - and it is easier on the hand! I noticed this video covers different firing schedules for different colors. Is there a list of these schedules (by color) or do I need to jot them down as they mention them?

I also wondered if there was such a thing for the other lessons - like a written overview of the key items/schedules/etc. covered in the lesson. Thanks!
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby marykaynitchie » Tue Mar 18, 2014 9:01 am

On behalf of the video production team, thanks for your kind words about the Frit Balls lesson!

Before I respond, can I ask a favor? I would really like to address you by your real first names, because I think it would improve our discussions. Your handles are not as sociable as your names. And you all know my name.

Back to the topic:

Over each lesson there is a tab titled "Learn More", which links to an article titled "Additional Information" with written material that we could not fit into a 10-minute lesson, or that addresses questions that we did not cover in the lesson. Often, we list the firing schedules there, as well as the products that are used in the lesson, or sources for non-glass supplies.

Your comments in the Discussion/Forum threads sometimes prompt us to revise the Learn More article with additional information, so thanks for your comments here.

For this lesson, the firing schedules are noted in the Additional Information article under the Learn More tab. We have also linked to other pertinent articles under "Learn More".

To find out which glasses are in the cadmium/selenium category, visit GlassTips:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-id ... scent.html
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-id ... arent.html

You can try ThinFire, but keep in mind that as the binders burn, the paper does not stay flat against the shelf. Consider how, if you burn a piece of paper in a fire, it moves and twists as it burns. Because frit particles are light (compared to a solid piece of sheet glass) the burning ThinFire can dislodge the frit and leave texture instead of gloss on the sides of the frit balls.

Thanks for all the great questions!

Mary Kay
Mary Kay Nitchie
Bullseye Glass Co.

Subscribe to Bullseye kiln-glass videos at
bit.ly/BullVideos
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby adamstg » Thu Mar 20, 2014 2:20 pm

I experimented with clear frit balls placed on top of a 6mm construction of clear and Egyptian Blue. Effect came out much like the video, however some of the clear dots have a bit of a haze. Not as shiny as the rest of the surface. Any ideas of preventing or correcting?
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby suds » Thu Mar 20, 2014 7:36 pm

adamstg@aol.com wrote:I experimented with clear frit balls placed on top of a 6mm construction of clear and Egyptian Blue. Effect came out much like the video, however some of the clear dots have a bit of a haze. Not as shiny as the rest of the surface. Any ideas of preventing or correcting?


Egyptian Blue seems particularly prone to devitrification especially if it's been fired once already (making frit balls). It usually cleans up fairly easily on a buffing wheel, but it does seem to be one of the PITA colors for devit.
Keep process temp & time to a minimum.
If you use shelf paper in your process try leaving the door or lid open a bit for ventilation until the kiln is up to 800F or so. That seems to have helped some for me
Steve
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby suds » Thu Mar 20, 2014 7:40 pm

I'm sorry... I reread your post and it seems it's the CLEAR glass you're having trouble with, not the Egyptian blue. My mistake. It's the Egyptian Blue that always plays hell with me.
Steve
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby adamstg » Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:39 pm

It does look like devit but it seems odd that it is confined to the areas where the frit balls were placed. I did clean them before use but am wondering if they had some type of contaminant on them. Will make another test and see what happens.
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Re: Working with Frit Balls

Postby suds » Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:46 am

Can you post a photo of it?
Steve
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