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Working with Drop-Out Molds

For discussion and commentary regarding the Lesson and Project videos of the Bullseye Kiln-Glass Education Online program.

Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby marykaynitchie » Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:53 am

Hi Nancy,

Sorry to learn that you are finding drop-out forms challenging. Can you describe your project in more detail? Please see this post for the information that we need in order to assist you.

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3787

When you document your process and share it, other members can compare your process to theirs, look at the differences in the variables, and make suggestions about variables you can adjust for your work to succeed. I hope you will post again!

Mary Kay
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Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby jestersbaubles » Wed Dec 02, 2015 7:16 pm

streetart@telus.net wrote:'m not sure of how much "lip" to leave...is 2 inches enough, I thought so, but yesterday it fell through. 6mm 12" wide with 8 inch hole to drop 5 inches... d\


6 mm of glass is pretty skimpy for a 5" drop. Part of the problem may be you need at least another layer of glass.

Also, your firing schedule would be helpful.... perhaps you are using too high of a process temp?

Dana W.
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Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby streetart » Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:43 pm

Help, is there anyone out there working with drop-outs? I just need a little guidance, compassion and a few pointers...Nancy
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Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby streetart » Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:56 pm

I'm a little embarrassed. I didn't know how these "discussions" worked...so I'm thinking NO ONE out there was answering my plea for help. NOW I see you have and I will read what you've suggested and get back to you with dimensions and timing etc. Thanks so much... :oops: I appreciate your help. nancy
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Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby hbpsab » Tue Sep 20, 2016 2:32 pm

It looks like most of the drop outs shown are a three inch drop. How tall does the kiln need to be for this depth? Thanks! (:
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Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby marykaynitchie » Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:03 am

Bonnie offers some advice:

The answer is that it depends on a number of factors as the kiln itself is a variable in the process.

I'd say that having 3" or more between the piece & elements is preferred. Firing closer to elements (especially top ones), slowing down the initial rate of heat could be a good thing. Even more so, if it is a blank w/ multiple styles/colors.

I've seen drop out pieces made w/ our smallest drop ring mold in the Benchtop 16s that were elevated more than 2" - starting w/ a thicker blank than shown in the video. The kiln shelf isn't elevated as high as what we do in GL24s & there are no elements in the top of the kiln. Not so much room, but it's possible.


I hope that helps!

Mary Kay
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Bullseye Glass Co.

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Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby jestersbaubles » Tue Oct 11, 2016 10:47 am

I have created a handful of drop-outs in my Paragon Fusion 14 kiln. It's top fire, and I had about an inch from the elements to the top of the glass. If you ramp up slowly, as suggested, it can be successful.

Here is a blog post that shows the setup, and I also have a firing schedule. It is System 96 glass, so you'll need to adjust annealing, and of course, you would need to adjust your top temp to reflect your individual kiln:

http://jestersbaubles.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-vase-adventures-continue.html

Dana W.
Dana Worley Fused Glass Designs
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Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby truckiebear » Sat Apr 29, 2017 4:13 am

Great video and the beginning to the end process is extremely helpful. Not everyone has all of the equipment like the wet sanders and saws to complete their project. Is there a way that you could add details of finishing without all the expensive kit! thanks :D
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Re: Working with Drop-Out Molds

Postby marykaynitchie » Mon May 01, 2017 8:25 am

If you don't have a saw, you can do straight scores and breaks on the "flat" glass that stayed on the ring. Then coldwork with loose grits. In fact, the example we use in the Coldworking with Loose Grits video is a drop-out project.

https://videos.bullseyeglass.com/videos ... oose-grit/

I hear it's a good workout!

Mary Kay
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making sample drop with black stringers

Postby myvalley » Thu Jun 22, 2017 10:40 pm

Hi,

I would like to make a sample drop vase with 4 layers of tekta and black stringers in a pattern resulting in squares like the sample used in the video, but for the smaller mold, 8633, OD 7.1", ID 3".

Intend to drop using 5" props.

Is 4 layers of tekta 1/8" enough?

I think it will help me a lot to visualize where and how the glass is stretching, before I start working with color.

Could you please let me know how big should I cut the tekta squares, and the lay up? Are the stringers laid out across each other on top of the topmost tekta layer?

How do you prevent them from rolling?

Should I dam and full fuse or could I tack fuse without dams to keep the height?

Looking forward to your reply.

Many thanks, myvalley
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