cutting 6mm tekta

[dr sawfish]

i know this sounds dumb,but what is the best cutter for 6mm tekta?

[Jim Jones]

Here are some notes from our tech sheet on glass cutting that might help:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/pdf/other_tech/improve_your_cutting.pdf

The size of the wheel determines how much pressure you need to penetrate the surface of the glass. The smaller the wheel, the less pressure is needed. Small wheels with a diameter of about 1/10th of an inch (like those on the Silberschnitt 2000 and Toyo cutters) are best for thin and standard thickness art glass.

The angle of the wheel also affects the pressure needed. For thin or standard thickness art glass (2-3mm or 1/16-1/8”) the perfect angle is 120°; however, a 135° angle (like that on the Silberschnitt 2000 and Toyo cutters) is quite versatile and is appropriate for scoring glasses up to 10mm. For glasses thicker than 10mm, a 160° angle is appropriate.

[bertglass]

I use the Toyo custom grip cutter with 135º tap wheel for all glasses between 3mm and 12mm. The tap wheel yields a cut with less flare. It is definitely better than the regular wheel. I also use the Toyo heavy glass running pliers. These are good for strips 2" or wider. If you need to cut thinner, you will need a different pair of runners.

I have used many cutters in my 38 years of cutting glass to pattern. Nothing is as easy for me to control as the Toyo custom grip (they all come with the 135º tap wheel).

[zadygirl]

What about cutting circles? I tried one last night (12") and on the last break it popped in half. Of course I'm sure it I must of gotten off the score line a bit! I can cut squares pretty good now so thought I'd try a circle . I normally don't use the circle cutter unless I need it to pop out clean, just easier to free hand most of the time and I didn't think the 6mm would work that way but maybe I'm wrong? Thanks!
Jeri

[Stephen Richard]

Yes, you can cut 6mm glass with a standard circle cutter and run the score just as you would on 3mm.

[KenKant]

I tried to cut some circles , using a circle cutter. I used my regular Toyo cutter to run a few scores from the circle to the edge of the glass. When I tried to use the runner the glass broke in ragged lines not planned for, resulting in a lot of unusable glass pieces. I have had the glass for almost a year before trying to use it. Any idea as to why I had such unplanned for breaks?

[bertglass]

I tried to cut some circles , using a circle cutter. I used my regular Toyo cutter to run a few scores from the circle to the edge of the glass. When I tried to use the runner the glass broke in ragged lines not planned for, resulting in a lot of unusable glass pieces. I have had the glass for almost a year before trying to use it. Any idea as to why I had such unplanned for breaks?

I'm not at all sure I have a clue what you meant by your description. Were the circles ragged or the edges of the break out cuts? Did you clean the glass before you cut it? Old glass simply has more opportunity to pick up dirt on the surface.

I use an interesting technique when cutting circles out. After scoring, I turn the glass over and run the score 360º. For glasses 6mm and under, I use my thumb to do this, for thicker, I use a tapping tool. Then I get out my propane torch. I fire it up and run the hottest part of the flame around the score. You will hear some snap crackle and pop. What is happening is the finish of the start. The start does not always extend all the way the opposite edge, and the torch does the finish in the shortest possible distance, resulting in an edge with no flare.

The big trick when cutting the breakout lines, is to start the score well outside the circle, then cut to the edge. The running pliers will find the circle that has already been finished.

[KenKant]

Your suggestions sound intriguing. For me, the glass broke away from the circle in the opposite direction from my score, i.e., the glass broke toward the circle o.k., but then continued on past the circle to the farthest edge. I tried tapping underneath the circle score line, but that didn't help (Not hard enough?) The glass was still in the shipping case covered by the protector sheets. Dirt may have been a factor. I didn't think to clean the glass first. The torch sounds a bit scary. I will try some of your suggestions. Thanks.

[bertglass]

Your suggestions sound intriguing. For me, the glass broke away from the circle in the opposite direction from my score, i.e., the glass broke toward the circle o.k., but then continued on past the circle to the farthest edge. I tried tapping underneath the circle score line, but that didn't help (Not hard enough?) The glass was still in the shipping case covered by the protector sheets. Dirt may have been a factor. I didn't think to clean the glass first. The torch sounds a bit scary. I will try some of your suggestions. Thanks.

Ken

You have to run the score 360º around the circle before you do the breakout cuts. Running the score will stop the break at the edge of the circle. There are many approaches to accomplishing running the score. There is your thumb, pliers, tapping, etc.

The #1 rule in cutting any glass is to clean it before you score. A spec of dirt is enough to ruin any cut on any glass.