Hi Delberta D,
What good timing for your question - here's a current document about Opaline Striker Frit with a few photos of the piece you mentioned. http://www.bullseyeglass.com/pdf/products/Opaline_Frit_What_to_Expect.pdf
The document doesn't fully address making frit balls or the bowl, so I've included more info here.
A general process for making frit balls:
1. Start with a primed shelf. Avoid Thinfire for this application.
2. Spread out a layer of -03 frit. Place or move pieces of frit to keep them separate from each other.
3. Fire hot enough to round out the frit, usually 1500°F with a :20 minute hold - the shelf side of the frit ball provides a little flat spot - great for placing on fused surfaces, etc. No need to program for annealing here. See Opaline Striker firing note below.
4. Once they've reached room temperature, collect the frit balls - rinse and dry them to remove primer dust.
Transparent glasses often fire cleanly whereas opalescent styles tend to pick up shelf primer (and then need more attention for cleaning). The good news is that Opaline Striker behaves more like a transparent and comes out quite clean.
Seeing as Opaline Striker turns more opaque with extended heatwork, it's best to make frit balls on the cool side. Fire as fast as possible to 1480°F for :16 minutes and the glass strikes with a pleasing translucent quality.
Then cut a 5.5" circle out of a sheet of 1/8" fiber paper, leaving the border intact as it acts as a dam or fence. Load it up with frit balls (on a primed shelf again). Tack the frit balls together: fire 300 degrees per hour to 1375°F for :10. Slump using mold 8746 in a separate firing (annealing is recommended in both of these firings.) Adapt sizes and slump firing schedules for different molds.
I decided to make frit balls out of the larger chunks of -03, so I did a bit of sorting during that part of the project.