bullseyeglass.com • View topic - Most Effective Curing Cycle

Most Effective Curing Cycle

For discussion of processes related to using Bullseye glass, including kilnforming and kilncasting, torchwork, blowing and stained glass.

Most Effective Curing Cycle

Postby cemoore » Thu Jun 09, 2016 11:39 am

I'm a bit unsure as to how long I should cure my molds prior to drying.

My application is lost wax, not Pdv or open face. My typical mold is 10 inch diameter cylinder by 5 inches tall. Here are the relevant steps:

1) Apply plaster to wax model then wrap mold in plastic to retain moisture while plaster sets for 2 hours;
2) Steam out wax
3) Determine volume;
4) 'Curing step': wrap mold in plastic for 24 hours ; and
5) Kiln dry mold until glass against kiln opening no longer registers moisture (at 200 degrees F).

Note that I use a crucible to hold glass rather than an integral reservoir.

In Tipsheet 8, BE recommends a 'curing step': wrap mold in plastic for 24 - 48 hours. It is stated that this increases the green strength of the mold. My objective would be to completely cure and strengthen as much as possible without unnecessarily prolonging the start of drying. I'm not reading elsewhere that this curing step is followed. Can it be skipped if I'm otherwise careful with the mold prior to firing?

Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2015 1:32 pm

Re: Most Effective Curing Cycle

Postby Ted » Thu Jun 16, 2016 1:30 pm


You can begin working with the mold in fairly short order after you are certain that it has set up and has hardened. As TipSheet 8 mentions, the curing step is primarily to increase green strength of the mold.

I hope that this helps.

Thank you,

Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:59 pm

Return to Technique

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests